Uždrausti švyturiai ir pajūris

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Akmeņraga bāka. Foto: Edgars Šulcs

NSV Liidu ajal olid Põhja- ja Lääne-Kuramaal asuvad mererannad tegelikult avalikkusele suletud sõjaväetsoonid, kuid tuletornide külastamine või isegi pildistamine oli keelatud.

Kui mereajaloo ja tuletornide uurija Arvis Pope otsustas kirjutada oma esimese raamatu tuletornidest, pidi ta eriloaga rändama ümber Kuramaa rannajoone ja tahtis muidugi tuletorne pildistada. See oli aga ametlikult keelatud, sest tuletornid olid sõjalised rajatised, mida jälgisid tolleaegsed piirivalvurid ja turvastruktuurid. Pidin seda tegema salaja, põõsaste ja metsapuude katte all. Lisaks tuli fotosid kiiresti muuta ja peita. Ühesõnaga, sa pead käituma nagu spioonifilmides. Kuna tuletornide lähedal oli piirivalve osi ja nagu selgub, ei soovitatud kaameraga Kolka neemele ilmuda.

Nii oli see ka Pāvilosta poolel - Arvis küsis luudalt töötanud mehelt - ütle mulle, kuhu sa saad siin minna ja turvaliselt mööda merekallast kõndida? Mees naeratas kavalalt ja ütles - kui te lähete paremale, siis ta hoiatab seal ja siis tulistab. Aga kui minna teisele poole - seal on hoiatus, seal on raketid!

Pāvilostas sisenesid nad raamatupoodi ja nägid riiulil Läti kaarti. Kuna see oli juba põhjalikult rebenenud ja kulunud, otsustasid nad uue osta. Ja naaber Riias võttis ka teise. Raamatupoest lahkudes vaatasid nad kogemata tagasi ja märkasid poeaknal müüjat. See on juba kellegagi telefonitsi kõnelnud, jätkas välismaa klientide hoolikat jälgimist ja saabuva auto numbrimärgi üles kirjutamist.

Arvja Pope raamat Tähe kaldal asuvatest tuletornidest ilmus 1985. aastal ja imekombel olid raamatu tuletornide pildid jäänud tsenseerimata. Tsensorid on ilmselt olnud tuletornide saladuses ebakompetentsed.

 
Pasakotojas: Arvis Pope; Šią istoriją užrašė: Normunds Smaļinskis, Jana Kalve
Panaudoti šaltiniai ir literatūra:

Arvja Pope raamat tuletornidest ilmus Tähe kaldal 1985. aastal ja imekombel olid raamatus olevad tuletornide pildid jäänud tsenseerimata. Tõenäoliselt on tsensorid olnud tuletornide salastatuse osas ebakompetentsed.

 

Связанные объекты

Mērsrags lighthouse and former border guard

Mērsrags Lighthouse is located in the Mērsrags village, about 1 km north of the village centre. The lighthouse was put into commission in 1875. It is an 18.5 m tall freestanding, cylindrical, riveted iron tower, the lower part of which has been fortified with reinforced concrete counterforts. The height of the signal light is 21.3 m. At the top all around the tower there is an iron balcony supported by consoles. The lighthouse tower was made by Sotera, Lemonier & Co in Paris, so this lighthouse is commonly known as the ‘Frenchie’. At the end of 1944, the 1003rd Artillery Division Battery of the German Army with 60 cm spotlights was located right next to the lighthouse. In May 1945, the Nazi Germany high command planned to move the 15th Latvian SS Grenadier Division to the area, but these plans failed, because Latvian soldiers surrendered to the Western Allies. Near the Mērsrags Lighthouse there are still remains of a building where during the USSR times Soviet border guards had a large, extendable spotlight for illuminating the sea. There is a bird-watching tower next to the lighthouse. Tours need to be booked beforehand by contacting the Mērsrags Tourism Information Centre.

Akmeņrags Lighthouse and the fate of the "Saratov"

The Akmeņrags Lighthouse is located in Saka parish, 10 kilometres southwest of Pāvilosta. The top of the lighthouse can be reached by a spiral staircase and it offers views of the sea and the surrounding forests. Standing at 37 metres high, the current lighthouse tower was built in 1921, while the previous lighthouse was destroyed during World War I.

The Akmeņrags Lighthouse stands out among other lighthouses in Latvia, as it is located in one of the most dangerous places for sailing in the entire Baltic Sea coast. The signal beam of the lighthouse marks a rocky bank, which extends approximately two nautical miles or 3.7 kilometres into the sea in a north-western direction. The depth of the bank is just over two metres. The location of the lighthouse has remained unchanged, but the coastline has been receding over the years. Although a navigation light has been here since 1879, Akmeņrags has seen several shipwrecks. The most notable occurred in September 1923 when a Latvian steamer named Saratow struck the ground. In 1919, Saratow briefly served as the seat of the Latvian Provisional Government. Akmeņrags used to be home to a border guard post, and buildings of the Soviet Army are can be viewed here.

Oviši Lighthouse and Soviet border guard

Oviši Lighthouse is located in the Tārgale parish in a village called Oviši on the coast of Kurzeme. It was built in 1814 and it is the oldest lighthouse in Latvia. The height of Oviši Lighthouse tower is 37 m. The lighthouse has a double-cylinder design: its diameter is 11.5 m, but within the stone wall there is a second tower with a diameter of 3.5 m. Such double-cylinder lighthouses were used also as defensive structures in the 18th-19th century Europe in case of enemy attacks. The Oviši Lighthouse Museum is considered to have the largest collection of lighthouse equipment and maritime navigation items among all Latvian lighthouse museums. When the weather is right the Irbe Lighthouse can be seen from Oviši Lighthouse.

At the end of World War II, the headquarters of the Beminger Battalion of the German Army was located near the Oviši Lighthouse along with the 4th Battery of the 530th Naval Artillery Division with several anti-aircraft guns. It is said that there was a radio direction finder and an infrared ray detection station Donau Gerät located at the foot of the lighthouse. A Soviet border guard post was once located near the lighthouse, but none of the Soviet-era buildings have survived. The Oviši station building is still located in the territory of the lighthouse.

Nõukogude armee sõjaväebaas Pāvilostas - aktiivne puhkekeskus

Nõukogude ajal asus siin piirivalveüksus, mõned kilomeetrite kaugusel metsas asusid teised nõukogude armee üksused - sideohvitserid ja maa-õhk tüüpi raketibaas. Pärast iseseisvumist paigutati sinna Läti armee.

Endine Nõukogude armee sõjaväebaas on nüüd puhke-, puhke- ja matkakeskus - isikliku arengu jaoks looduse ja ümbritsevate inimestega suhtlemisel. 

Puhke- ja majutuskoht nii turismigruppidele kui ka peredele. Toad, duššid, WC, kaminad, avar ala tegevusteks, loodushääled. Broneerige eelnevalt telefonil +371 26314505.

Nõukogude piirivalvetorn Pāvilostas

Nõukogude piirivalvetorn asub Pāvilosta lõunapoolse muuli lähedal. Nõukogude piirivalve kunagine vaatlustorn, mida alates 1990. aastate algusest enam ei kasutatud, on nüüd muudetud vaateplatvormiks, millel asub 360 kraadi pöörlev maismaateleskoop. Sealt avanevad ilusad vaated merele ja laevadele ning seal võib vaadelda linde. Torni on lubatud ronida ainult suveperioodi valgel ajal. Kuna torni trepid on üsna järsud, peavad külastajad hindama oma võimeid, tervislikku seisundit ja võimalikke riske. Vaatetornis ja selle ümbruses on videovalve. Talvel on torn külastajatele suletud.

Mazirbe border guard tower

The Soviet border defence post was located in the building that used to be a maritime school, and next to it is a well-preserved Soviet border guard watchtower. The second watchtower is located right on the shore next to a parking lot. These watchtowers are a reminder of the Soviet occupation and the times when Mazirbe was a closed border area and civilians were allowed on the shore only in specially designated places and only during the daytime. This border guard watchtower is one of the best-preserved objects of its type on the coast of Latvia. However, it designated is dangerous to climb it.