Kariuomenės buvimas Mangalsaloje

Ryškūs įspūdžiai iš Latvijos kariuomenės buvimo Mangaļsaloje yra ryškūs mano prisiminimuose. Aprašyti fortai bei Sapieri pastatytas gelžbetoninis įtvirtinimas. Prisiminimai aprašo karių kasdienybę, gyvenimo ritmą, iliustruoja Mangalsalos aplinką. Lanko Mangaļsala ir Latvijos kariuomenės kariai
"(..) Pravažiuojame per Dauguvos atšakos užtvanką, kur prasideda sulaikytas rajonas. Kelias vingiuoja į mišką. Pėsčiųjų nesimato. Tyla. Mišrių medžių miškas kvepia taip pirmapradiškai, svaiginančiai, kad norisi kvėpuoti giliai, giliai. Nusukame mažu, apaugusiu takeliu. Koks keistas buvo tas vidurinis pastatas, žemai, žemai! Sapnesnis pulkas (patrankos uždengtos gaubtais, čia tarsi prasideda dar viena maža šalis su savais įstatymais, taisyklėmis ir tvarka. Dabar dažnai sutinkame kariškius tiek grupėmis, tiek pavieniui. Visi jie gerai nusiteikę ir įdegę saulėje. Kai kurie miestiečiai, kurie didžiuojasi savo įdegiu – čia būtų tikrasis „balgimas“. Kai kur galite išgirsti radijo garsiakalbį. Praeiname pro tinklinio aikštelę, čia, dabar karšta Gimnastika tikrai buvo žaidimas su kriaukle. Verda dideliuose katiluose Besišypsanti šeimininkė – kaip pati geroji dvasia – stovyklavietė savaime graži. Tvarkinga veja ir gėlės daro malonų įspūdį. Jie jau yra savotiški meno kūriniai. Už palapinių eilių čia įsikūrę keli nameliai, čia gyvena pareigūnai ir instruktoriai su šeimomis. Kai kuriuose nameliuose yra net nedidelis šviesus sodas ir pavėsinė. Baltai dengti stalai rodo, kad šių nedidelių namelių gyventojai įpratę po atviru dangumi turėti azaidų. Stovykloje daug gyvybės. Lankytojai sudužo. Prie mėlynakio kareivio sėdi sena mama. Ji atnešė kaimo kyšį – braškes. Pakreipus žilą galvą ji klausosi anūko arklio kalbos. Jis tikriausiai sako kažką gero, nes jie abu juokiasi. Kiek toliau, palėpėje – šeimos idilė. Mažas berniukas su mama atėjo aplankyti tėvo. Berniukas įslinko į tėvo glėbį. Bakstelėja pirštu į skiriamuosius ženklus ir skaičiuoja juosteles: „Vienas, du...“ Tėtis turi dvi juosteles. Kartais įsmeigia pokštą tėvui į skruostą, bet paskui vėl tyrinėja skiriamuosius ženklus... Toliau - kareiviui - dvi viešnios moterys. Abu jie vienodai gražūs ir linksmi. Jis sėdi tarp jųdviejų ir nežino, į kurį dažniau žiūrėti. Oi, kartais nėra gerai turėti per daug laimės! Turime paprašyti šiek tiek informacijos ir kreipiamės į atvažiuojantį karį. Jis turi mėlynas akis ir plačią, malonią šypseną. Jo kalba – latgalių. Ezeržemės sūnus. Jis kalba lėtai, plačiai šypsosi ir visą laiką šiek tiek sutrikęs. Pro rezidencijas veda tikra gatvė su tvora. Namo tarpduryje galima pamatyti baltą virėjo kepuraitę ir prijuostę. Kažkur už giraitės jauni balsai dainuoja: „Kur tu užaugai, gražuole dukrele...“ Balsai kaip vanagai skrenda į medžių viršūnes, bet pačių dainininkų nematome. Artėja lieknas kareivis, susikibęs rankon su šviesiaplauke mergina. Jie netaria nė žodžio, tik žiūri vienas į kitą šypsodamiesi ir – matyt – nuostabiai vienas kitą supranta. Tegul kas nors kitas pasako, kad akys neturi savo kalbos; ypač jei šių akių savininkai jauni. Atvažiavome į stotelę, čia pastatytas šiaudinis grybas laukiantiems autobuso lietingu oru. Kitoje kelio pusėje akį džiugina tvarkingomis, tiesiomis eilėmis sukomponuotas vaismedžių sodas. Tada išgirstame autobuso variklio ūžimą. Čia jau prabėgo penkios gražios valandos - jūros alsavime, medžių ošime - stebint žydinčią, veržlią jaunystę. Susirenka praeiviai ir pasilikę žmonės. Tamsiaakis artileristas lydi rožinį arklį. Jie vis dar turi daug, daug ką pasakyti ir pasakyti. „Atrašyk, būtinai rašyk – lauksiu“, – tviteryje rašo mergina. Kareivis dienas skaičiuoja ant pirštų. — Vėliausiai iki trečiadienio, tada turėsi laišką! — Ilgą laiką ranka slaugė ranką. Jiems sunku išsiskirti. Šviesiaplaukis šaunus kareivis su ryškiais ženklais lydi mamą. - "Pasveikink tėvą ir brolį - iki susitikimo kitą sekmadienį!" Autobusas beveik pilnas. Lieknas kareivis atsisveikina ir su šviesiais plaukais. Jie vėl beveik nieko nesako. Keletas tylių žodžių. Išsigandęs jis perkelia plonus pirštus prie lūpų. Autobusas jau pakeliui. Šviesiaplaukė vos spėja įeiti. Nedidelė, apvali kasininkė nužvelgia į ją susierzinusią žvilgsnį ir sušnabžda: "Turėjai pakankamai laiko iki atsisveikinimo!" Šviestuvas nieko nesako. Jos veide vis dar šypsosi. Ji mojuoja atsisveikindama. Ji turi gražias mėlynas akis, tylią, egocentrišką išvaizdą. Ant dešinės rankos bevardžio piršto - gležnas žiedas su rubinu, - sužadėtuvių žiedas. Ar nenuostabu, kad atsisveikinti nėra taip lengva ir nepastebimai praslysta kasininkės gelianti pastaba? Taip pat mažas berniukas, matytas stovykloje su mama autobuse. Mažylis turi tiek daug ko paklausti, kad mama sunkiai susitvarko su didžiuliu jo smalsumu. "Tėtis šaudo: pūk!" – girdžiu iš jo autobuso galo. Berniuko skruostai paraudę kaip rausvas obuolys. Mažoji kasininkė pradeda rinkti pinigus. Ji beveik dar vaikiška, bet vaidina „tikrą damą“. Suspaudusi lūpą, ji užtikrintai paduoda mums bilietus, kita ranka surengė neklaužadą trenksmą ant kaktos. Viskas vyksta labai sklandžiai, o jos pirštai rausvai lakuotais nagais platina bilietus ir siekia pinigų. Bet paskui – nemalonus incidentas su kai kuriais vyresnio amžiaus kariais – Lāčplės karo ordino kavalieriais. Jiems šioje linijoje siūloma pusė kainos, kitiems kariams – kiek didesnė išskirtinė kaina. Pasirodo, Lāčplėš karo ordino kasininkė nežino, nors jis yra ant minėtų karių krūtinės, tempiasi ir ginčijasi, traukia visų raitelių dėmesį. Mums visiems nejauku mažos "ponės" didelė burna. Autobusas važiuoja lengvai ir supasi kaip ant sūpynių. Pasirodo Žiemeglblāzma... Sarkandaugava... Netrukus važiuojame tiesiomis, "šiurkščiomis" R3as gatvėmis. Vis dar noriu pakelti ranką sveikindamasis – nusiųsti jiems linkėjimus – palapinių mieste, apsuptame medžių ošimo ir jūros dvelksmo! (..)"
Atsiminimai buvo publikuoti 1938 m. laikraštyje "Latvijas kareivis", Nr. 126. Pavadinimas "Svečiai pas karius lageryje"
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Fortification of the Latvian Army Sapper Regiment
It is located in Riga, Mangaļsalai at the mouth of the Daugava in the sea opposite Daugavgrīva.
The Latvian Army's reinforced concrete fortification, or kaponieris, was an element of the Latvian Army's coastal defense system. It was built by the soldiers of the Sapieru regiment in 1928. Designed for shooting the enemy with machine guns in two different directions. It was secretive, hard to see and not marked on maps.
After the War of Independence of Latvia, Mangaļsala was formed as a fortified area of the Latvian army to stop potential attacks of the enemy, including landings. The intention was to enhance the effectiveness of weapons by taking advantage of special structures and terrain. Reinforced concrete fortifications were able to protect soldiers and weapons during the battle, and also allowed to control the territory with small forces. Mangaļsala was home to a Latvian army radio station and coastal defense artillery.
Nowadays, you can see a rare and well-preserved fortification in Latvia. In the territory of the seaside forest, you can see other fortification structures. A place with huge potential still waiting for revival.
Audio guide https://izi.travel/en/edbf-mangalsala-fortifications/en
Mangalsalos įtvirtinimai
Pakrantės įtvirtinimai yra Rygoje, Mangaļsaloje, Dauguvos žiotyse, priešais Dauguvgryvą. Čia galima pamatyti įvairių kariuomenių (rusų, latvių, vokiečių ir sovietų) pastatytus įtvirtinimus. Mangalsalos įtvirtinimai buvo pastatyti siekiant apginti Rygos miestą nuo priešiškų laivynų. Ši sritis ilgą laiką buvo strategiškai svarbi. Po Pirmojo pasaulinio karo Latvijos kariuomenė dar neturėjo stipraus laivyno. Jūros siena buvo ilga, o pakrančių gynyba tapo vis sunkesnė užduotis. XIX amžiaus pabaigoje – XX amžiaus pradžioje Latvijos kariuomenė perėmė Rusijos imperijos statytus įtvirtinimus ir išplėtė gynybos sistemą. Dauguvos ir Mangalsalos artilerija atidengtų ugnį į priešo laivus, bandančius įplaukti į Dauguvos žiotis, o atramos taškai prie Lielupės (Jūrmala) ir Gaujos (Carnikava) žiočių sustabdytų priešo desantininkus. Taip pat buvo specialiai įrengtas šarvuotas pakrančių gynybos traukinys, galintis teikti artilerijos ugnį ir paramą Saulkrastų ar Jūrmalos kryptimis. Strateginių objektų įtvirtinimo tikslas buvo maksimaliai panaudoti ginklus per specialias konstrukcijas ir reljefo pranašumus. Pakrantės gynybos įtvirtinimai buvo išskirstyti didelėje teritorijoje, kad karo atveju atremtų priešo pastangas.
Garso vadovas https://izi.travel/en/edbf-mangalsala-fortifications/en
Comet Fort
The Comet Fort Dam is historically related to cultural monuments of national significance: the buildings of the Daugavgrīva Fortress, as well as the complex of fortification structures of the Daugava estuary in Mangaļsala. The mole, which was constructed in 1850–1861 and whose construction was actively supervised by the Russian Tsar, who repeatedly visited it, stretches into the sea from Mangaļsala. Two stones can be found on the bank of the Daugava in the vicinity of the mole: they were named “Tsar’s Stones” in honour of the visit by the Russian Tsar Alexander II and Prince Royal Nicholas to this place.
Mangalsala Street
At the end of the 19th century, fortifications began to be built on Mangaļsala, and with them this paved road was also created, because it was practically impossible for heavy trucks to move on the dry and fine sand of Mangaļsala. Previously, the paved road led from the Vecdaugava dam (this is the place where you enter Mangaļsala from the Vecāķi side) to the army dock on the bank of the Daugava. Unfortunately, a large part of the pavement was appropriated by unscrupulous people over time, so this road is no longer safe for driving with passenger cars in several sections. Part of the paved part was once covered with asphalt.
Railway branch and platform
Around 1958, a special railway branch was built on Mangaļsala from the Vecāķi station for the needs of the Soviet army. It was the most convenient way to bring fuel, ammunition, firearms and building materials to the military base located here. Even earlier, starting from the 20th century and up to the Soviet years, a narrow-gauge railway ran through the entire Mangaļsala, transporting ammunition to the gun emplacements. Later, a more serious railway branch was built, crossing the Vecdaugava over one of the two – the least known – dams on Mangaļsala. For example, it is no longer possible to access this dam from the Vecāķi side, because the view is blocked by private property. The concrete hillock visible in nature was a platform. When Soviet troops left Latvia in the early 1990s, 600 wagons with approximately 30 tons of ammunition were transported along this railway. It is said that at that time it was done in such a hurry and so carelessly that "the whole of Riga could have been seen in the air". Or at least a certain Riga neighborhood. Shortly afterwards, the railway was dismantled.
Closed ammunition depots built in the 1950s
In the 1950s, such a bunker was built and covered with earth so that a potential enemy could not find it so easily. There are four such buildings in Mangalsala in total, all of which were built between 1953 and 1955. During the Soviet era, ammunition was stored here - underwater mines, torpedoes, etc. Currently, this is the cleanest of the closed-type ammunition depots from the Soviet era, but if you go further, you can also see the largest one.
Attention! To protect hibernating bats (all species are protected), do not move underground and inside bunkers from October to April.
Open ammunition depots, lightning conductors, wells
During the Soviet era, so much ammunition and military equipment was brought to Mangaļsala that there was not enough space in the warehouses, so a large part of it had to be stored in the open air. Only such things that could be damaged by moisture were placed in the premises. This action also shows the careless attitude of the Soviet army towards any kind of inventory: a sandbank was built around it, of which a small hillock still remains, but the bank itself protected the ammunition from fires and explosions. If a rocket were to explode in the vicinity here, the blast wave would hit the bank and would not reach further, or would reach a much smaller extent. Nearby is a reinforced concrete pole - a lightning rod! Such poles allowed to protect ammunition from lightning strikes. Similar poles can be observed in other places. Former water wells are also visible, so that if necessary, something could be extinguished. In general, information about the Mangalsala ammunition depots was very secret - even on old Soviet military maps these places are marked as pioneer camps. Approximately 50 meters behind the embankment is another concrete bunker.
Projectile warehouses
This building was built between 1876 and 1885, when Tsar Alexander II and after him Tsar Alexander III ruled here. It is worth paying attention to the facade of the building with cornices and window openings, etc. decorative forms. This building was used as a warehouse where cannon shells were stored. Approximately 300 meters from here there is another such warehouse, which even has beautiful, curved window grilles. Similar red brick military buildings can still be found here and there in Latvia - for example, in Liepāja Karosta. All the red brick buildings on the territory of Mangaļsala were built at about the same time. At that time, the political situation in Europe was complicated, and the Russian Empire began to militarily strengthen its Western border. The building has a double outer wall and air circulates between the walls, which not only creates additional ventilation, ensuring the necessary temperature and humidity level in the building, but is also able to cushion the explosion. In the event of a large explosion, the outer wall collapses, but the inner one remains intact, protecting what is inside the building. On top of the bunkers on the other side of Mangaļsalas Street, there were mortar positions. During the time of free Latvia – in 1926 – anti-aircraft guns, or cannons that move on wheels, were placed instead of mortars! Not far from here is one of the thickest pine trees in Riga. Moreover, it is not only thick and large, but also wounded – bullet marks can be found on the pine trunk. In what battles the pine suffered – it is unknown!
Attention! To protect hibernating bats (all species are protected), do not move underground and inside bunkers from October to April.
Chemical warehouse and bypass road
This bunker was built in 1955 - during the Soviet occupation. The path around this building was once a bypass road, surrounded by a double barbed wire fence. Guards walked behind it and watched to see if any unauthorized person approached the facility. This building is mentioned in some sources as an ammunition depot, and in others - a chemical storage facility. It is said that there were even nuclear missiles here, but no traces of radiation have been found here. It is completely dark inside, but then - light is visible. It used to be a ventilation system. This is the only building on Mangalsala that had ventilation. Cargo was brought here by wagons along the railway. The acoustics are very good - once a youth choir even had a rehearsal here! However, here and there, graffiti art works are placed on the walls of the building.
Attention! To protect hibernating bats (all species are protected), do not move underground and inside bunkers from October to April.
Latvian Army Spotlight Point
The peculiar horseshoe-shaped concrete structure was once the location of a searchlight. Meanwhile, a hundred meters further towards Vecāķi, a searchlight helmsman sat in a small concrete bunker and watched for any unauthorized person approaching from the coastal side. There were practically no trees here, so the entire area was clearly visible. If an attacker started shooting at the light source, the helmsman would be completely protected – submerged in the cover of darkness and concrete. This searchlight point was built by the Latvian army in 1928, continuing to adapt the already militarized Mangaļsala to its needs. Later, during the Soviet occupation, the searchlight could also be used to watch for anyone intending to go in the opposite direction and flee to the “wild west”. Leaving the country without permission was prohibited. In addition to security, the coastal sand was also plowed up so that the tracks of illegal immigrants or pedestrians could be seen.
Coastal artillery battery
This is the largest military structure on Mangalsala, which began to be built between 1912 and 1916. The walls of the bunker were several meters thick, and it was protected from the sea by a sandbank. During the First World War, the German fleet did not come to Riga, only thanks to the cannons stationed here. In 1917, the Russians withdrew from Riga on their own and blew up part of the bunker when they left. During the Latvian Independence period – in the 1930s – and later during the Soviet years, this battery was renovated and expanded – the cannon platforms were rebuilt and new cannons were installed. In 1941 – during the Second World War, the Russians blew up this battery again, fearing that German troops might enter Latvia. The first cannons fired approximately 12 to 15 kilometers, but the newer ones could hit the target at a distance of up to 40 kilometers. There is an inscription: “Built by sailors” - built by sailors in 1946. In the basement of the bunker there were ammunition cellars, where the shells needed for the guns were stored. There were special hatches in the walls through which shells could be fed for faster loading of the guns in combat conditions. Now here is the longest military tunnel on Mangalsala - a corridor about 100 meters long. In the spring, part of the bunker tends to flood! In the 1960s, aviation technology developed, missiles and air defense systems were invented, and this battery with all its guns - once so scary and powerful - became unnecessary to anyone.
Attention! To protect hibernating bats (all species are protected), do not move underground and inside bunkers from October to April.
Riga Garrison Army Tent Camp
Now there are bushes and thickets here, but in the thirties of the last century, the Riga garrison army summer camp was located here. In some places you can still see what look like rectangular ramparts. In these places there were soldiers' tents, arranged in four long rows, with small streets in the middle. At the ends of the rows stood the logos of the garrison units - they were cast from concrete, but the ornaments and inscriptions were made of small, colorful stones. The ramparts around the tents were necessary not only to retain moisture, but also for military purposes. If landing troops entered Mangaļsala, they would be used as trenches under the cover of which to protect the territory from the enemy. Although real military training was taking place here, a romantic idyll reigned in the air, which is also visible in photographs of the time. Young people played volleyball. In the courtyards of the officers' cottages, gazebos and flower beds were well-groomed. The soldiers were visited by their loved ones on weekends, bringing baskets of strawberries and fresh bread. Most meals were eaten outside at tables in the fresh air.
Army town
In this area, in the late 1920s and early 1930s, the Latvian army built an army camp for officers and soldiers who worked on Mangalsala. Later, the camp, along with the Mangalsala military base, became the property of the Soviet Union. Civilians without a certain status lived here, but later social apartments were created for low-income people. On the right side there was a football field and small gardens, but over time they turned into meadows and swamps. Later, private houses and a car service appeared here. Until the 1960s, Mangalsala was not part of Riga at all, but part of Mangali parish. At that time, people here were engaged in fishing or worked at the army base, because agriculture was practically impossible – the arable land area on Mangalsala is only 3.8%. Once upon a time, a narrow-gauge railway ran through the camp right along Mangalsala Street, but the street itself was paved. Now the pavement is hidden under a layer of asphalt. At the end of the road is the port area and the former military pier. Army ships were once moored there, and footbridges were built between them.
Can be seen from the outside, walking along Mangaļsalas Street.
Remnants of training torpedoes
According to eyewitness accounts, the Soviet army stored ammunition on Mangalsala very carelessly, which could have been the cause of man-made disasters. Ammunition had been stored in this area since the time of Tsarist Russia – in both closed and open-type storage facilities. During the Soviet era, ammunition and naval mine warehouses of the USSR Baltic Fleet were located here. There was supposedly a torpedo workshop in Daugavgrīva.
“In Mangaļi, Riga District, where our mine and torpedo warehouse was located, 400 thousand tons of explosives were stored. (…) In addition, the warehouse stored hundreds of torpedoes, sea mines, fuse-detonated explosive charges and all sorts of other explosive junk. There was also a charge deactivation workshop. And a whole pile of small arms – from SKS carbines to “Parabellum” pistols,” writes former officer – Captain 2nd Rank Andrejs Riskins.
Nowadays, the "torpedoes" seen in the forest are training torpedo hulls cast in concrete.
Eastern (Mangalsala) Pier
Both piers on the Daugava are closely connected with military events and history. They were built at the end of the 19th century to reduce the clogging of the river mouth and regulate the flow, thereby ensuring shipping and at the same time - the protection of the Daugava mouth. Their strategic importance was associated with the protection of Riga as an important port and military base.
During World War I and the Latvian War of Independence, the area around the mouth of the Daugava River was a zone of military operations. During World War II, the piers were of great strategic importance, as they helped control the approach to Riga from the sea.
The pier is based on a wooden pile structure covered with stones. The pier is approximately one kilometer long.
Although today the Daugava piers are mainly used as a walking area and a historical site, their historical connection to military strategy and the protection of sea routes is an important aspect of Latvian history.
Caution! The surface of the pier can be slippery. Visiting it during strong winds and storms is dangerous!
LKM photos - Liepaja Fortress 6th battery, not in Mangalsala.