II WW2, IV Soviet occupation

Along the battlefields of Kurzeme Pocket to Soviet Heritage adventure in Dundaga

Day 1.

155 km

Rīga–Lestene–Zante–Brocēni–Saldus

Practical info


  • Driving distance: 155 km

  • The Memorial Exposition and the Latvian Legion soldiers’ bunker are both open on working days from 08.00 – 16.00. On weekend visits upon advance booking +371 26247095. Lestene Brothers' Cemetery is open 24/7

  • Visiting Lestene Lutheran Church upon prior arrangement only + 371 29299064

  • Kurzeme Fortress Museum in Zante is open from May 1 – November 15. Guide services +371 29442311. A picnic site is available

  • Check the boat “Zezer” public timetables and book the trip in advance. The trip takes ~ 1h 15 min

Sights

Kurzeme fortress museum in Zante

Kurzeme Fortress Museum is a large private collection dedicated to the events of World War II in Kurzeme. The museum is located in the village of Zante, Kandava municipality, which is part of the military history of the Kurzeme Fortress. Exhibit includes items of military history, military machines, restored trenches and bunkers.

The Kurzeme Fortress and Courland Pocket – these are the terms that are most commonly used to describe battles between the German and Red Army in Kurzeme from 1944 to 1945. These engagements or “Grand Battles of Kurzeme” were notable, because the German Army, which was located in a partially isolated territory, managed to withstand multiple large-scale attacks by the Red Army at a time when Berlin had fallen to the Allied Army and Germany had already surrendered. Units of the Latvian Legion were one of the best combat units in Kurzeme. Latvian Legionnaires believed that their fight would help thousands of Latvians to escape the Red Army's crimes against civilians. Even long after the war had ended the land of Kurzeme was riddled with reminders of the battles fought – military cemeteries, destroyed equipment, armaments and trenches.

Boat trip in Ciecere lake by the boat “Zezer”

During the ride with the recreational boat “Zezer” along Lake Ciecere near Brocēni you can listen to the audio guide and captain's stories about Lake Ciecere and the city of Brocēni on its shores, World War II events near Lake Ciecere, trenches on both sides of the lake and the Oak Island, as well as the tank route running along an observation tower and the tank that is said to be sunk in the lake. The audio guide is available in Latvian, Lithuanian, English, and Russian languages. The ride takes 1 hour 15 min.

Lestene Brothers' Cemetery, Memorial Exposition and bunker

Lestene Brothers’ Cemetery is located in Tukums municipality, Lestene, next to the Lestene church. The construction of the Brothers’ Cemetery in Lestene began in 1998. It is the second largest military cemetery in Latvia, and more than 1,300 Latvian legionnaires are buried here. Only after regaining the independence, it was possible to rebury Latvian soldiers who fell during World War II. The Latvian Legion was a combat unit of the German Army, formed mainly from illegally drafted Latvians. The soldiers thought of their presence in the legion as something that had to be done to be able to restore Latvia’s independence, despite the fact that they were in the ranks of the German armed forces and that Germany had occupied Latvia. Latvian legionnaires fought against the Red Army, which had destroyed Latvia's independence and its army and committed crimes against civilians. Between 110,000 and 115,000 soldiers fought in the ranks of the German Army and about 30,000–50,000 of them never left the battlefield. The Brothers’ Cemetery central theme ‘Motherland – Mother – Latvia’ was created by the sculptor Arta Dumpe. Across the road an exhibit dedicated to the history of the Latvian Legion has been created in a former pub. Right next to it the men of the Latvian Officers Association, under the leadership of Captain Jānis Slaidiņš, have built an underground bunker to show how soldiers and officers lived on the front lines.

Lestene Brothers' Cemetery

Located in Tukums region, Lestene, next to the church.

The construction of the Brothers' Cemetery in Lestene began in 1998. It is the second largest cemetery of soldiers in Latvia, where more than 1,300 Latvian legionnaires are buried together. Only after the restoration of the Republic of Latvia was it possible to bury Latvian soldiers who died in World War II from various places.

The Latvian Legion was a combat unit of the German army, formed mainly from illegally mobilized Latvians. The soldiers perceived their presence in the legion as a struggle for the restoration of Latvia's independence, despite the fact that it took place in the ranks of the German armed forces and that Germany had occupied Latvia. There was no other military force that could delay the return of the Soviet occupation. Latvian legionnaires fought against the Red Army, which had abolished Latvia's independence, destroyed its army and committed crimes against civilians. Between 110,000 and 115,000 soldiers fought in the ranks of the German army, and between 30,000 and 50,000 of them left their lives on the battlefield.

Today in Lestene you can see the Brethren's Cemetery, next to which is Lestene Church. It is an outstanding example of baroque sacred art. In the old church pub you can get acquainted with the exposition dedicated to the history of the Latvian Legion. The central image of the Brothers' Cemetery "Motherland - Mother - Latvia" was created by the sculptor Arta Dumpe. Nearby is Lestene Manor, which belonged to the Latvian Army General Mārtiņš Hartmanis before the Second World War.

Excursions to Lestene Church can be booked at the head of the parish of Lestene Evangelical Lutheran Church Inguna Kokina, phone +371 29993743.

 

Places to eat

Medieval pub in JAUNPILS CASTLE

Meals are served in the ancient dining room of the knights under the vaulted ceiling, with candlelight and medieval music. Use wooden spoons or your hands to enjoy the same kind of feast that was enjoyed in the past by barons, monks and servants.

Latvian cuisine: Lentil soup with meatballs, beer soup, apple soup with raisins, peas with hemp, potted sautéed meat with caraway seeds, chanterelles in cream sauce, hunter’s sausage with cabbage, roast loin of pork, blood sausage, roast leg of duck with lingonberry sauce, stream trout, homemade cottage cheese with strawberries, plum dessert with whipped cream.

Special foods: “Castle Walls with Guards”: Beer-roasted pork ribs with sauerkraut.

The “4 vēji” saloon

The saloon is on the Rīga-Liepāja highway (A9) at the 72nd km road marker. Live music evenings are organised.

Latvian cuisine: Vidzeme salad, herring with cottage cheese and soured cream, grey peas with bacon, sautéed cabbage with sausages, cabbage rolls, potato pancakes, bread soup, stacked rye bread.

Special foods: “4 vēji” – pork with sauerkraut and potatoes on a hot pan.

The “Aitiņlauvas” saloon

The saloon is on the edge of the Rīga-Liepāja highway (A9) at the 22 km road marker. Most of the dishes are based on ingredients from the forest. The interior design is based on hunting, and there is a paddock of wild deer alongside the restaurant.

Latvian cuisine: Roast buck, roast wild boar, venison steak, roast lamb, stuffed river trout.

Places to stay

DEMIANS

A small hotel in the center of Saldus. Each room has a private bathroom. The hotel has a restaurant, where the chef offers both Latvian and international cuisine. Rooms have a minibar, TV and free Wi-Fi. Free parking is available.

RADI
Rest and recreation on the shores of Lake Ciecere. Guest-house for overnighting, seminars, banquets. Cottages, water skiing, paddle boats, trips by jeep in „roadless” park, country sauna.
SMUKU MANOR
The renovated estate complex from the 16th century is located in 20km from Saldus. Different standard rooms for guests in the hotel and cottages accommodating totally 150 persons. Party rooms for 200 persons. Spacious are for sports events, catering services, a sauna with a slide into the pool for private events. Mini golf, rough-terrain route, a swimming spot, boating. Excursion programs for groups. Thematic events throughout the year. In summer – family holidays in a cottage in tranquil setting, free activity facilities.
ZVEJNIEKI

On the shore of Lake Ciecere, a house with a fireplace hall and a sauna for parties and seminars for up to 30 people. We offer 4 heated cottages, which allow you to live at any time of the year - both in summer and in winter. Good place for fishing, boat trips, catamaran. Organizes yoga camps, sports festivals, children's camps and various celebrations. There are sports fields for football, basketball, volleyball. Excursions around the lake and the island. There are also tent sites and camper places.