II World War II

Refugee boats from the coast of Kurzeme to Sweden

Day 1.

60 km

Mazirbe - Staldzene - Ventspils

During this stage, you will get to know the places and stories of World War II refugees on the picturesque Courland High Seas coast.

Practical info

Driving distance: ~60 km. The Ventspils – Kolka road (P 124) is asphalted along its entire length.

There are few places to have lunch and dinner on the Kolka–Ventspils route. You can order a meal in advance or bring your own food for lunch.

There is also a Maritime Trail - the Great Sea section of the coastal pedestrian path along the entire route. You can also search for natural and cultural heritage sites of interest there: Maritime Trail - Route information (baltictrails.eu)

* The itinerary is intended as a guide - how to optimally travel around a region or country with the aim of getting to know its military heritage;

* The traveler plans how many of the recommended objects and places he can explore in one day;

* Before traveling, you should check the opening hours of sightseeing places (museums, collections, fortifications, etc.);

* For places where advance booking is required (local guides, private collections, etc.), a visit must be booked, specifying the date and time. If the trip is cancelled, the places booked must be informed;

* Accommodation must be booked in advance. Accommodation may be unavailable during the summer season, especially on the coast. Some catering establishments may not be open during the winter season;

* Choose not only summer for your trip, but also other seasons;

* Visit tourist information centers where you can get additional information, brochures, and maps.

Sights

The Mazirbe coast, from where refugee boat traffic to Sweden took place in 1944

The Mazirbe coast was an important place during World War II, from where refugee boat traffic to Sweden took place in 1944.

Memories of boat refugee Ilona Cīrule (nee Mālītis): “I was 13 years old at the time. I remember that at the end of September we traveled in a caravan from Riga to Mazirbe for a whole week. The trip remains in my memory as something unpleasant: the Russian candles in the sky worried me to the core. We lived in Mazirbe for about three weeks, and every day I heard talk about crossing over and about looking for boats. Finally, on October 21, we had to get ready. [..] There were about 90 of us on the boat. I sat on my father’s lap on the deck. The small children with their mothers were below, and they were short of air. I must have been dozing, but in the morning of the next day a plane was spotted and a ship on the horizon. Then the people became quiet. In the afternoon, the ship came again, and this time it came right at us. But it happened like in a fairy tale: it was a Swedish military ship! They pulled us all onto the ship, gave us warm cocoa and took us to the port of Nynashamn. Our boat was tied to the ship and its owner Zariņš-Petravs received it safe and sound. Among the guests were Šici, Zanderi, Vanagi, the former Minister of Justice Mrs. Apsīša, our family and others. I know that the boat had to be paid in gold. But how much - I don't know.

The steep bank of Staldzene, from which refugee boat traffic to Sweden took place in 1944

In 1944, there was active refugee boat traffic from the Staldzene cliffs to the shores of Sweden.

Ž. Lapuķis' memories of meeting with Dr. E. Bakusis:

“One afternoon, a local police officer came to me and quietly told me that a boat from Sweden was expected to arrive that night near the village of Staldzene near the Koku hills to pick up refugees. My task was to come with a group of guards from my unit to guard this place and, if necessary, help to transport the refugees to the motorboat. [..] Not far from the sea, without waiting, a man stood in front of us on the rope, wearing a gray half-coat with a turned-up collar and a jockey's hat pulled low on his forehead. He said a quiet good evening and asked: “Is this the road to Lošupi?” That was the watchword for Swedish riders in that place. He said that he was here on a special mission, but at the same time he would like to get his family to Sweden safely. Then, to my great surprise, he pulled out our forestry plan from his pocket. In the twilight, I began to watch the stranger's face and soon recognized him. It was Bakūzis, the head of the Forestry Department's Forestry Management Division [..] It was approaching midnight when we saw a black dot in the distance in the sea. We gave the agreed signal with a flashlight, repeating it several times. After a short while, the same answer came from the black dot, only it was not from a flashlight, but the light transmission of a warship. We realized that the boat was no longer expected that night and the group of refugees was starting to disperse. Bakūzis invited us both with the company commander to stay with his family. We found it in a hollow in the dunes under a thick fir tree. There, in the green moss, with their heads resting on a white pillow, three offspring of this family were lying in a deep sleep, and next to them, with a white scarf around their heads, sat the caring mother of the house. The father of the house found a bottle and the mother of the house offered sandwiches. It seemed that with their Latvian sincerity they were the real father and mother of the house, who had found their home on this rainy autumn night under the fir tree of their homeland. On one side the sea hisses, on the other a forest massif and heavy raindrops slowly fall through the branches of the fir tree. We emptied the bottle, but refused the sandwiches, because we realized that they needed them more themselves.

Mazirbe Boat Cemetery, in the Mazirbe Dune Zone

"Mazirbe Maritime School"

Mazbānītis Trail in Northern Kurzeme, Mazirbe, Slītere National Park

Ovisi Lighthouse and Coast Guard

Mazirbe Border Guard Tower, Mazirbe

Baltic Sea Route section: https://baltictrails.eu/lv/coastal/itinerary/1

Monument to those who fled across the sea to Sweden in 1944, Cape Puise, Estonia

Places to eat

ZĪRIŅI (ex.Zītari)
A hotel in the Kolka village centre, 500m from the Cape of Kolka. En suite rooms. A restaurant on the 1st floor. There is a shop next doors.
MELNSILS

Camping "Melnsils" is located in Melnsils, Roja district, on the seashore. Offering relaxation in double and four-bed barrels, a guest house set in an ancient, authentic fishing farm, each room and the interior is designed based on historic events and ancient stories, complemented by the unique nature of the seaside nature. For the rest of the year, there is also a Holiday House, a Bathhouse, a Lovely Boudoir, a boat deck, a beach house. The opportunity to take an active vacation outside the city - for cycling or pleasure boating, you can go for adventure with SUP, boats and kayaks by the sea and Melnsil River, to play badminton.

Kafejnīca "Dižjūra"

Kafejnīca "Dižjūra" atrodas Mazirbē, Lībiešu tautas namā. Atvērta vasaras sezonā. 

Boating, boat rental Irbe, boats, safari trips, restaurant, cafe (dabalaba.lv)

Places to stay

Collection of Soviet Military Vehicles

Edgars Kārklevalks owns a guest house called Pūpoli in the Dundaga region, and for more than 15 years he has been taking people on historical and educational trips around northern Kurzeme (including to former military areas) with his own renovated Soviet Army truck GAZ-66 (up to 24 persons) and UAZ-3151 (up to 6 persons). Soviet Army trucks and other equipment are showcased in an area around the guest house.

ZĪRIŅI (ex.Zītari)
A hotel in the Kolka village centre, 500m from the Cape of Kolka. En suite rooms. A restaurant on the 1st floor. There is a shop next doors.
Rebuilt German army dugouts in Melnsils Campsite

Campsite Melnsils is located next to the sea 10 km from Kolka. Here German Army type dugouts have been built that can be used as lodging for the night. This is a nod to the history of this region when during World War II the German Army had a border guard post and a camp site here and soldiers built dugouts for themselves using materials that could be found nearby. Trenches can still be found in the dunes along the coast.

‘Bunker Nr. 13’ is the largest of the two dugouts, with three bunk beds. The ‘Small Bunker’ is smaller and has two bunk beds. Campsite ‘Melnsils’ is a great choice for active recreation and sporting events for up to 300 people. It is located near the Slitere National Park, coastal bluffs and forest hiking trails. There are marked cycling trails that wind through the natural surroundings in the area. There are designated places for tents and campfires by the sea, as well as barrel-type guest houses for two or four people. A bathhouse with different types of whisks is also available.

Usi

The proximity of Cape Kolka, the air with its redolent scent of the sea and the pine trees, and a unique identity – these are the characteristics of Kolka, and the Ūši farm has fully absorbed them.  Guests have a separate apartment in a country house with a shower and WC.

Strautmaļi - Camping

This is a place for leisure in Mazirbe along the Livonian shore.  It is part of the Slītere National Park, and the venue welcomes solo travellers, families and groups of friends.  There are six buildings which can accommodate up to 50 people – rooms for one, two or three visitors, as well as one room for 12 visitors.  A new service building has a lavatory, shower and kitchen.  Sauna services are available.  Strautmaļi also has a banquet hall with a fireplace, an amazing collection of teaspoons, a library of books for all tastes, as well as beautiful paintings.

The centre of Mazirbe is 3 km away, the sea is 2 km away.  Silence, a pine forest, mushrooms, cranes.

The venue is open from May 20 until September 3.

The price is EUR 40 per night for two people.
 

Vitoli

The Hostel „Vītoli” is situated 3 km from the Cape Kolka, where the Riga Bay meets the open sea – the Irbe Strait, within the territory of the Slītere National Park. Offer light and cosy double rooms to guests, also a two bedroom option for a family. There is a fire place to spend a chilly evening  at with a cup of hot tea or coffee. In case you would wish to prepare a light meal – there is a kitchen with a gas stove, a fridge and some essential dishes. There is a common shower and WC. A home terrace with tables, a grill and a campfire in the yard, tables for lunch, and room for five or six tents.

Boating, boat rental Irbe, boats, safari trips, restaurant, cafe (dabalaba.lv)

Oviši Lighthouse (tent sites)